Verification of numerical wave propagation models in tidal inlets

The performance of two numerical wave propagation models has been investigated by comparison with field data. The first model is a refraction-diffraction model based on the parabolic equation method. The second is a refraction model based on the wave action equation, using a regular grid. Two field situations, viz. a tidal inlet and a river estuary (Zeegat van Texel and Haringvliet) along the Dutch coast, were used to determine the influence of the local wind on waves behind an island and a breaker zone. It may be concluded from the results of the computations and measurements that a much better agreement is obtained when wave growth due to wind is properly accounted for in the numerical models. In complicated coastal areas the models perform well for both engineering and research purposes.